In January–February 2025, I spent 10 days travelling around Japan’s Central Honshū region by train. My travel companions and I caught a variety of different trains, from the sleek, high-speed Shinkansen (bullet trains), to more leisurely local trains. Starting in the sprawling metropolis of Tokyo, we travelled by train to remote mountain villages, traditional Edo period towns, and quaint seaside destinations. The below map shows our route.
When planning our Japan trip, there were two train-related experiences I was keen to include on the itinerary:
- A visit to Okuōikojō Station – a remote, cliffside train station overlooking an emerald lake, encircled by mountains; and
- A journey along the Tadami Line – widely acclaimed as Japan’s most scenic winter train route.
Though these two attractions were in opposite directions from Tokyo, I was very fortunate that my travel companions were happy to build our itinerary in a way that allowed us to experience both!
Japan’s railways are the most efficient in the world. Its flagship trains are the Shinkansen which, aside from their remarkable speed, are notable for their impeccable safety record. There has not been a single fatality since services commenced in 1964. In addition to the Shinkansen, Japan’s rail network offers limited express services (which only stop at major stations), as well as express, rapid, and slower local trains for varying travel needs.
The majority of Japan’s rail network is operated by six different companies known collectively as the JR Group. Other private railway companies manage additional lines. While Japan’s trains are known for their punctuality, I was a little surprised by how inconvenient it is to purchase tickets for certain routes. While Shinkansen tickets are easy enough to purchase online, securing tickets for other trains often requires waiting in line at the station—sometimes for quite a long time. Even our trip on the famous Tadami Line saw us go to the station and attempt to purchase tickets at the ticket machine, only to discover it was not possible to do so for this route. Instead, we had to proceed to the ticket counter, which only accepted cash. While Japan undoubtedly leads the world in railway travel, I really do think they could streamline their ticket buying process.
It is worth pointing out here that my travel companions and I opted not to purchase the Japan Rail Pass, as it would have been more expensive than buying individual tickets for each train journey. This reveals just how overpriced the Rail Pass currently is. During our 10 day trip, we caught a total of 25 different trains (not counting the Tokyo Metro) and still found that individual tickets were cheaper than the Pass. While the Pass would undoubtedly be good value for someone predominately travelling on the Shinkansen, if you are visiting more remote destinations, you will require slower trains, in which case individual tickets are more affordable.
My guidebook for our journey around Central Honshū was Ramsey Zarifeh and Anna Udagawa’s Japan By Rail (Trailblazer, 5th ed, 2022).
Railway Enthusiasts in Japan
In Japan, train enthusiasts come in many forms, each with their own unique train-related passions. Indeed train fanatics in Japan even have their own name: densha otaku. There are a range of subcultures within the densha otaku community. I am, first and foremost, what is known as a Nori-tetsu (someone who delights in riding trains and looking at the passing scenery). Over time, however, I have also become an Eki-tetsu (someone who enjoys train stations—in my case, unique, picturesque, architecturally interesting, or remote stations).
During my 10 days in Japan, I also temporarily embraced the roles of Oshi-tetsu (a stamp collector – more on this below) and Shūshū-tetsu (a train merchandise collector). I would almost certainly have become a Shūshū-tetsu during previous travels if the opportunity had presented itself, but Japan is the only place I have ever visited where train-themed merchandise is so widely available. Indeed, I found several sprawling stores devoted entirely to train-related goods in Tokyo. These weren’t your typical souvenir shops with a few keychains; I’m talking about expansive department-sized stores filled with an incredible range of unique, train-inspired products—everything from bags and socks to chopsticks, books, and an impressive selection of stationery. I left with a treasure trove of items, especially related to my favourite train, the E5 Series Shinkansen. Some of my Japanese train souvenirs are pictured below.
Japan is home to many other fascinating types of train enthusiasts, including Jikokuhyо̄-tetsu (those who enjoy reading train timetables), Ekiben-tetsu (those who enjoy eating and collecting ekiben (bento boxed meals sold at Japanese train stations)) and Oto-tetsu (train sound experts).1 There are even Mama-tetsu (mothers who have become interested in railways through their children).2 Even more niche types of enthusiasts include Houki-tetsu (legal aficionados who delve into the laws surrounding trains) and Tetsugaku-tetsu (those who philosophise about the design of older trains and what they reveal about the society of their era).3 For any Houki-tetsu here who are fascinated by the intersection of trains and the law, you may enjoy my other website, Tracking the Law, where I write about notable legal cases involving the railways. No matter what type of train enthusiast you are, one thing is clear—there’s no better place in the world for train lovers than Japan.
Eki Stamps
As I mentioned above, during my time in Japan, I temporarily embraced the role of Oshi-tetsu (stamp collector). This is because there’s something truly special you’ll find at almost every railway station in Japan: an ink pad and unique stamp featuring an image that represents the district surrounding that particular station. These stamps make for fantastic souvenirs, capturing the essence of the railway journeys taken and the various stations visited.
The tradition of collecting eki stamps emerged from the Japanese cultural practice of visiting sacred sites, such as shrines and temples, where unique stamps (known as goshuin) have been collected for hundreds of years. As Japan’s railway system expanded, the practice of collecting stamps at train stations also slowly emerged.4
There was a real thrill in searching for the stamp at each station, admiring its design, and pressing it into my stamp book. I’m very thankful to my friends, who happily joined me in collecting the stamps at each stop—and often seemed just as excited as I was to find them!
Alongside the station-specific stamps, I also collected a few ‘stamp rally’ stamps in Tokyo. Stamp rallies, typically organised by train companies, see the installation of additional, limited-time stamps at select stations. Collectors who gather all the stamps in a rally can earn exclusive prizes. When I was in Tokyo, an East Japan Railway Company (JR East) stamp rally titled ‘Glorious Vehicles Running on Railways’ was happening between January–March 2025.
Some examples of the Eki stamps I collected are pictured below. The Aizu-Wakamatsu Station stamp depicts the famous Aizuwakamatsu Castle, alongside Akabeko—a legendary cow from the region which inspired a traditional Japanese toy. The Enoshima Station stamp showcases the train station building and Enon-kun, the offical mascot of the Enoden railway line, who is shown surfing (a reference to this area’s popularity among casual surfers). Finally, the Yudanaka Station stamp depicts the nearby Jigokudani Monkey Park, where Japanese snow monkeys bathe in hot springs.
See Carissa Loh (Japan Rail Club), ‘10 Types of Railway Enthusiasts: Which Are You?’ (27 November 2024, Online). ↩︎
Sora News 24, ‘Better know a train nerd: 36 different classifications for Japan’s ‘densha otaka’ (21 April 2014, Online). ↩︎
Ibid. ↩︎
Sue Lynn, ‘Stamp Rallies: A Fun and Unique Way to Explore Japan by Train’ (Japan Rail Club, 13 February 2025, online). ↩︎
Trips
Riding the Ōigawa Railway to one of the world's most remote train stations!
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